The Subversive Stitch Resources


The Subversive Stitch Revisited: The Politics of Cloth

The following listing of resources and influential texts was provided by speakers at The Subversive Stitch Revisited symposium as background to their presentations. Please contact us if you have suggestions for additional material that contribute to thinking and practicing a politics of cloth.


Marjorie Agosín, Scraps of Life: Chilean Arpilleras: Women and the Pinochet Dictatorship, translated by Cola Franzen (Trenton, NJ: Red Sea Press, 1987). ISBN 978-0932415288.

Amnesty, "Will I be Next?" US Drone Strikes in Pakistan (2013), 

Arundhati Roy, Broken Republic: three essays (London: Hamish Hamilton, 2011). ISBN 978-0241145289.

Judy Attfield and Pat Kirkham (eds), A View from the Interior: Feminism, Women and Design (London: The Women's Press, 1989). ISBN 0704341107.

Debra Barrett-Graves (ed.), The Emblematic Queen: Extra-Literary Representations of Early Modern Queenship (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2013). ISBN 978-1137303097.

Michael Bath, Emblems for a Queen: The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots (London: Archetype, 2008). ISBN 978-1904982364. 

Michael Bath, “Symbols of Sovereignty: Political Emblems of Mary Queen of Scots”, in Guiseppe Gascione and Donato Mansueto (eds.), Immagini e potere nel Rinascimento europeo (Milan: Ennerre, 2009), pp. 53-68. ISBN 978-8887235692. 

Michael Bath, “The City of Dames Tapestries: Building the House”, in Laurence Grove and Alison Saunders (eds.), Transmigrations: Essays in Honour of Alison Adams and Stephen Rawles (Geneva: Droz, 2011), pp. 189-206. ISBN 978-0852619315.

Michael Bath, “Philostratus Comes to Scotland: A New Source for the Pictures at Pinkie”, Journal of the Northern Renaissance, Issue 5 (2013). ISSN 1759-3085.

E. Bayrd, “Bringing women together – To sew, teach, and inspire”, in The Keiskamma Altarpiece (Los Angeles: Fowler Museum at UCLA, 2006).

Luc Boltanksi, and Ève Chiapello, The New Spirit of Capitalism (London: Verso, 2005). ISBN 978-1859845547.

Carol Brown, “Hope restored, history reclaimed”, in The Keiskamma Altarpiece (Los Angeles: Fowler Museum at UCLA, 2006).

Norman Bryson, Vision and Painting: The logic of the gaze. (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1983). ISBN: 978-0300035834.

Civil Partnerships? Queer and Feminist Curating, conference held at Tate Modern, May 2012. Recording, part three, “Queer Collections”.

“Children of the Dirty War”,

Alia Chughtai, “Drone art: death on canvas. A generation of Pakistani artists focuses on expressing life under daily violence” (Aljazeera, 25 Nov 2013),

Sarah Corbett, A Little Book of Craftivism (London: Cicada Books, 2013). ISBN 978-1908714077.

Jo Darbyshire, The Gay Museum, an exhibition exploring the history of lesbian and gay presence in Western Australia (Perth: Western Australian Museum, 2003).

Bracha Ettinger, The Matrixial Borderspace (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2006). ISBN 0816635862.

Elke Gaugele, (ed.), Aesthetic Politics in Fashion (Berlin and New York: Sternberg, 2014).

Elke Gaugele, Sabina Muriale, and Ruby Sircar (eds.). Do-it-with-Others: Gemeinsam anders tun! Ein Lese- und Werkbuch zu Moden, Styles und Postkolonialismus (Weinheim: Beltz (forthcoming)).

Dan Glazebrook, Divide and Ruin: The West’s Imperial Strategy in an Age of Crisis Liberation Media, 2013). ISBN 978-0991030309.

Doro Globus (ed.), Fred Wilson: A Critical Reader (London: Ridinghouse, 2011). ISBN 978-1905464364. 

H. Grandsart, “The Isenheim Altarpiece”, Connaissance des Arts, special issue on the musée d'Unterlinden in Colmar (August 2008), pp. 10-23.

Derek Gregory, lecture based in his text The Everywhere War.

Dave Hann, Physical Resistance: a hundred years of anti-fascism (Winchester: Zero Books, 2013). ISBN 978-1780991771.

Andrée Hayum, The Isenheim Altarpiece: God’s Medicine and the Painter’s Vision (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1993. ISBN 978-0691040707.

Jessica Hemmings, Cultural Threads: Transnational Textiles Today, (London: Bloomsbury, 2015). ISBN 9781472524997

Tansy E. Hoskins, Stitched Up. The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion (London: Pluto Press, 2014). ISBN 978-0745334561.

Khadija Carroll La, Lisbeth Freiß, Elke Gaugele, Sabina Muriale and Ruby Sircar (eds), Vienna Zocalo. Critical Crafting as a (post)colonial Strategy (Vienna: Academy of Fine Arts, 2012).

“Kaja Marie Lereng Kvernbakken's Oslove pattern”, 

Yve Lomax, Sounding The Event: Escapades in Dialogue and Matters of Art, Nature and Time (London: I.B.Tauris, 2004). ISBN 978-1850436737.

Ruth Mellinkoff, The Devil at Isenheim: Reflections of Popular Belief in Grünewald’s Altarpiece (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1988). ISBN 978-0520062047.

“Mexico’s street battles reflected in embroidered handkerchiefs”,

“Mexico massacre highlights unknown drug war victims”,

H. L. Meakin, The Painted Closet of Lady Anne Bacon Drury (Farnham: Ashgate, 2013). ISBN 978-0754663973.

“The Mothers of the Disappeared: Challenging the Junta in Argentina:

Griselda Pollock, “Femininity: aporia or sexual difference?”, introduction to The Matrixial Borderspace by Bracha Ettinger (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2006), pp. 1-37. ISBN 0816635862.

Griselda Pollock, “Mother trouble: the maternal-feminine in phallic and feminist theory in relation to Bracha Ettinger’s elaboration of matrixial ethics/aesthetics”, Studies in the Maternal 1:1 (2009), pp. 1-31.

Heather Pristash, Inez Schaechterle and Sue Carter Wood, "Identity, Embroidery, and Sewing: The needle as the pen: intentionality, needlework, and the production of alternate discourses of power", in Women and the material culture of needlework and textiles, 1750-1950, ed. Beth Fowkes Tobin and Maureen Daly Goggin (Farnham: Ashgate, 2009). ISBN 978-0754665380.

“Remaking Picassos Guernica”, banner blog:

“Scarf of Hope as a Warm and Performative Memorial for the Disappeared in Peru”,

Brenda Schmahmann, “A framework for recuperation: HIV/AIDS and the Keiskamma Altarpiece”, African Arts 43:3 (2010), pp. 34-51. ISSN 0001-9933.


Rose Sinclair, editor, "Textiles and Fashion: Materials, Design and Technology"     12 Nov 2014, Imprint: Woodhead Publishing




Matt Smith, “The Art of Unravelling the Past”, engage 31, The Past in the Present, pp. 72-78. ISSN 1365-9383.

Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking (London: Verso, 2002). ISBN 978-1844675586 

Rebecca Solnit, The Faraway Nearby (London: Granta, 2013). ISBN 978-1847085115.

Gayatri Chakravorty Spivak, “Righting Wrongs”, The South Atlantic Quarterly 103:2/3 (Spring/Summer 2004), pp. 523-548. ISSN 0038-2876.

Efrat Tseelon (ed.), Fashion and Ethics: Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty, Vol. II (Bristol: Intellect, 2014). ISSN 2040-4425.

Marcia Tucker (ed.) and Meg Linton, A Labor of Love, exhibition catalogue (New York: The New Museum of Contemporary Art, 1996). ISBN 978-0915557790

Unravelled Arts,

Unravelling Nymans, exhibition catalogue (Hove: Unravelled Arts, 2012). ISBN 978-0957247604.

Unravelling The Vyne, exhibition catalogue (Hove: Unravelled Arts, 2013). ISBN 978-0957247611.

Unravelling Uppark, exhibition catalogue (Hove: Unravelled Arts, 2014). ISBN 978-0957247628.

Women’s International League for Peace and Freedom,


Nicola Ashmore and Megha Rajguru, members of the Remaking Picasso's Guernica collective, UK


Elena Hertzog, USA

Hu Xiaoyuan, China

Tina Jonsbu, Norway 

Anne Lindberg, USA

Hanna Ryggen, Norway

Kari Steihaug, Norway

Verdensteateret (The World Theatre), Norway


Mary Sibande, MOMO Gallery


OpenWear, Collaborative Clothing Platform, Denmark/Solvenia

Serpica Naro, Italy

Crochetpower, Switzerland


Catherine Harper, UK / N.Ireland


Craftivist Collective


Dr Rowan Bailey, University of Huddersfield

Centre for Sculptural Thinking –


Textile: Journal of Cloth and Culture

Textile: the Journal of Cloth and Culture 

Selvedge magazine