Emma Tarlo has conducted long term anthropological fieldwork in India and Britain. She has a specialist interest in the anthropology of dress, material culture and urban anthropology and has published widely in these fields. Her work engages with issues of colonialism, nationalism, diasporic identities, aesthetics, religious revivalism, identity politics, stigma and representation. She is particularly interested in the relationship between visual, material and narrative forms.
Emma Tarlo has recently been interviewed by Stefanie Sinclair (Open University) about attitudes among British Muslims towards veiling, fashion and the commercialisation of the hijab. The audio interviews are available for listening or download from the Open University or iTunes, and will feature in an Open University course entitled 'Why is religion contoversial?'
Professor Emma Tarlo is currently on research leave, working on a grant entitled 'Untangling the Global Trade of Human Hair' until September 2016.
Areas of supervision
Emma Tarlo is keen to supervise students working on dress, fashion, material culture, museums, craft, urban space, memory and embodied religious practice. She would particularly welcome students working on contemporary Muslim communities in Europe and on South Asian communities in South Asia and the South Asian diaspora.
- Muzna Al-Masri, Urban Space and histories of violence in contemporary Beirut
- Chinedu Anyanwu, British African-Carribean Women's Conversion to Islam
- Katie Aston
- Magdalena Buchczyk
- Gabriela Nicolescu, Ethnographic objects and artworks between production and iconoclasm. The case of the Museum of the Romanian Peasant
- Sandra Shepley, 21st-century education
Emma Tarlo has carried out research in India and Britain on a variety of issues including clothing, textiles, identity politics, urban anthropology, contested histories and critical events.
Dress, Identity, the Body, Materiality
Much of Emma Tarlo’s work focuses on the body as a cultural artifact and on the role played by dress in social, political, cultural, religious and aesthetic life in India and Britain. Her book, Clothing Matters (1996) explores the decisive role played by dress in the assertion and maintenance of colonial authority in late 19th century India and in the development and spread of Gandhian inspired nationalism in the 1920’s and 30’s. It also examines how tensions concerning gender, caste, class and religion continued to be played out through dress in rural and urban India in the late 1980's and early 1990's when she was conducting fieldwork in rural Gujarat and Delhi.
More recently Emma Tarlo has conducted research about the growth of visibly Muslim dress in Britain and Europe and on the relationship between Islam and fashion. Her book, Visibly Muslim: Fashion, Politics, Faith (Berg 2010) examines how issues of religious conviction, emotion, materiality, life history, politics and sociality come together in the clothing biographies of young Muslims in London and are articulated through the emergence of new forms of Islamic fashion.
These themes are further explored in the forthcoming book, Islamic Fashion and Anti-fashion: New Perspectives from Europe and America (co-edited with Annelies Moors, Bloomsbury 2013) which examines how the relationship between Islam and fashion takes on different inflections in different spaces in relation to migration histories, regimes of secularism and both global and national politics. The research also traces some of the new networks emerging over the internet and the role played by modest fashion in bringing women from different religious backgrounds into online dialogue.
The Politics of Urban Space
Another significant strand of Emma Tarlo’s work concerns the politics of urban space. In the mid to late 1990s she lived in Delhi for 3 years and was involved in collective and individual research about the city, focusing in particular on the lives and narratives of people who had been displaced through the massive "slum clearance" and "family planning" drives of the mid 1970s. The research which was archival, visual and ethnographic explored the relationship between official histories, archival records, local narratives and lived experiences and is published in her book, Unsettling Memories: narratives of the Emergency (2003) which can also be read as an anthropological investigation and critique of state practices and their consequences.
Emma Tarlo’s long term interests in the body, identity politics, aethetics and globalization come together in her latest research project, ‘Head to Head: Untangling the global Trade in Human Hair’ for which she has obtained a Leverhulme Trust Senior Research Fellowship (September 2013-2016). The project will trace the architecture of the expanding global market for human hair and will explore the significance of hair as it passes from head to head and becomes incorporated into different personal and cultural projects of self enhancement. To read more about the project, click here:
Emma Tarlo has collaborated with researchers at Art Map (Paris), IRD (Paris), ISIM (Institute for the Study of Islam in the Modern World, Leiden) and SOAS/UEL (London), University of Amsterdam, the London School of Fashion, the Horniman Museum and the V&A Victoria and Albert Museum.
Recent Collective Research Projects
2007-09 - Islamic Fashion in Europe: The Politics of Presence
This NORFACE-funded research project, directed by Annelies Moors, formed part of the NORFACE Programme The Re-emergence of Religion as a social force in Europe?
2010-11 - Modest Fashion and Internet Retail
This AHRC–funded project, directed by Reina Lewis, formed part of the AHRC Religion and Society programme.
Unsettling Memories: Narratives of the Emergency in Delhi
Tarlo, Emma. 2003. Unsettling Memories: Narratives of the Emergency in Delhi. Hurst, University of California Press, Permanent Black. ISBN 1850654484
Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion: New Perspectives from Europe and North America
Tarlo, Emma and Moors, Annelies, eds. 2013. Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion: New Perspectives from Europe and North America. London: Bloomsbury. ISBN 978-0-85785-335-6
Islamic Fashion and Anti-fashion: New perspectives from Europe and North America
Tarlo, Emma and Moors, Annelies, eds. 2013. Islamic Fashion and Anti-fashion: New perspectives from Europe and North America. London: Bloomsbury Academic. ISBN 978-0857853356
Re-fashioning the Islamic: Young Visible Muslims
Tarlo, Emma. 2017. Re-fashioning the Islamic: Young Visible Muslims. In: Hamid Sadek and UNSPECIFIED, eds. Young British Muslims: Between Rhetoric and Realities. New York and London: Routledge, pp. 151-170. ISBN 9781472475558
Les Cheveux des Autres
Tarlo, Emma. 2016. Les Cheveux des Autres. In: Anne-Christine Taylor-Descola; Emmanuel Grimaud; Denis Vidal and Thierry Dufrene, eds. Persona: Etrangement humain. Paris: Actes Sud, pp. 153-156. ISBN 978-2-330-03801-4
“Dress and the South Asian Diaspora”
Tarlo, Emma. 2013. “Dress and the South Asian Diaspora”. In: David Washbrook and Joya Chatterji, eds. Routledge Handbook of the South Asian Diaspora. London: Routledge, pp. 363-373. ISBN 978-0415480109
'Meeting through Modesty: Jewish-Muslim Encounters in the Internet'
Tarlo, Emma. 2013. 'Meeting through Modesty: Jewish-Muslim Encounters in the Internet'. In: Reina Lewis, ed. Modest Fashion: Styling Bodies, Mediating Faith. London: I. B. Taurus, pp. 67-90. ISBN 978-1-78076-383-5
Multicultural muslim fashions
Tarlo, Emma. 2010. Multicultural muslim fashions. In: C Breward; R Crill and P Crang, eds. British Asian Style Fashion & Textiles / Past & Present. London: V&A Publications. ISBN 9781851776191
The South Asian Twist in British Muslim Fashion
Tarlo, Emma. 2010. The South Asian Twist in British Muslim Fashion. In: Christopher Breward; Philip Crang and Rosemary Crill, eds. British Asian Style: fashion & textiles / past & present. London: V&A, pp. 58-67. ISBN 9781 85177 619 1
"Welcome To History: A Resettlement Colony in the Making"
Tarlo, Emma. 2001. "Welcome To History: A Resettlement Colony in the Making". In: Emma Tarlo; Veronique Dupont and Denis Vidal, eds. Delhi: Urban Space and Human Destinies. Delhi: Manohar Publishers and Distributors. ISBN 978-8173043666
"Paper Truths: The Emergency and Slum Clearance through Forgotten Files"
Tarlo, Emma. 2001. "Paper Truths: The Emergency and Slum Clearance through Forgotten Files". In: C J Fuller and Veronique Benei, eds. The Everyday State in Modern India. London: C Hurst & Co Publishers Ltd. ISBN 978-1850654711
"Body and Space in a Time of Crisis"
Tarlo, Emma. 2000. "Body and Space in a Time of Crisis". In: Das Veena, ed. Violence and Subjectivity. CA: University of California Press, pp. 240-270. ISBN 978-0520216082
Developing Methods for the Study of Religious Dress
Tarlo, Emma. Developing Methods for the Study of Religious Dress. In: Linda Woodhead and UNSPECIFIED, eds. How to Research Religion: Putting Methods into Practice. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Jewish wigs and Islamic sportswear: Negotiating regulations of religion and fashion
Tarlo, Emma. 2016. Jewish wigs and Islamic sportswear: Negotiating regulations of religion and fashion. Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty, 7(1), ISSN 2040-4417
Hijab online: the fashioning of cyber Islamic commerce
Tarlo, Emma. 2010. Hijab online: the fashioning of cyber Islamic commerce. Interventions: International Journal of Postcolonial Studies, 12(2), pp. 209-225. ISSN 1369-801X
“From Finsbury Park to Damascus, Islamic men’s fashions in Britain’
Tarlo, Emma. 2009. “From Finsbury Park to Damascus, Islamic men’s fashions in Britain’. The Middle East in London Magazine,
Islamic Cosmopolitanism: The sartorial biographies of three Muslim women in London
Tarlo, Emma. 2007. Islamic Cosmopolitanism: The sartorial biographies of three Muslim women in London. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 11(2-3), pp. 143-172. ISSN 1362704X
Hijab in London: Metamorphosis, Resonance and Effects
Tarlo, Emma. 2007. Hijab in London: Metamorphosis, Resonance and Effects. Journal of Material Culture, 12(2), pp. 131-156. ISSN 13591835
Reconsidering Stereotypes: Anthropological Reflections on the Jilbab Controversy
Tarlo, Emma. 2005. Reconsidering Stereotypes: Anthropological Reflections on the Jilbab Controversy. Anthropology Today, 21 (6), pp. 13-16. ISSN 14678322
"Married to the Mahatma: The Life and Predicament of Kasturba Gandhi"
Tarlo, Emma. 1997. "Married to the Mahatma: The Life and Predicament of Kasturba Gandhi". Women: A cultural Review. Special Issue, Independent India, 8(3), pp. 264-277. ISSN 0957-4042
"From Victim to Agent: Memories of the Emergency from a Resettlement Colony in Delhi"
Tarlo, Emma. 1995. "From Victim to Agent: Memories of the Emergency from a Resettlement Colony in Delhi". Economic and Political Weekly, 30(46), pp. 2921-2928. ISSN 0012-9976
Conference or Workshop Item
Jefferies, Janis K. and Tarlo, Emma. 2013. 'Material Witness'. In: Training workshops with Dr Emma Tarlo (Department of Anthropology) for PhD researchers in visual and material culture. Courtauld, University of Kent and Goldsmiths, United Kingdom.